I Love Coffee (er… the organic kind)
I love coffee. On average I drink three cups a day. I’m not a sugar and cream kind of gal. I like it bold. I like it black.
“I hope you’re drinking organic,” my eco-conscious friend Jessica advised me.
Organic coffee? It never dawned on me to check for such labels. I’m more concerned about taste.
But the serious tone in her voice struck me. So I decided to investigate. I went straight to the source, by paying a visit to groundwork coffee company, the largest certified-organic coffee roaster in Southern California. I sat down with the CEO and Founder Richard Karno, a laid back and affable man, who was more than happy to share his knowledge.
“Coffee is the third most pesticide-sprayed crop,” he told me, “Right after cotton and tobacco.”
Pesticides, I thought to myself, that can’t be good. But why should I care?
Further investigation led me to discover the following facts:
For one, the use of pesticides can have unintended effects on the environment. Over 98% of sprayed insecticides reach a destination other than its target, contaminating both land and water. If that’s not enough to raise your eyebrows, then you might consider the health effects on human beings. According to the Food and Agricultural Organization (FAO) and United Nations Environment Program (UNEP), an estimated one to five million cases of pesticide poisoning occur every year, resulting in several thousand deaths among agricultural workers.
Still sitting comfortably?
Then let’s zero in on YOU and ME-the end consumers. Recent studies indicate that pesticide residue on foods greatly increase the risk of major illnesses, including Parkinson’s and cancer. Suddenly, I begin to wonder why there aren’t health warnings on non-organic packaging. Perhaps it should read: “We have laced these beans with poison. Drink at your own risk.”
In reality, it has taken a while for the organic market to catch on. Even Karno didn’t start out roasting organic beans. He launched Groundwork in 1990, expanding on his business as a café owner and rare book dealer. It wasn’t until 1995, during a trade show, that Karno noticed organic coffee was getting some traction. “It wasn’t just the oddball grower,” he explains. “It actually had some legs.”
By the mid-90s, Groundwork had turned its focus to quality and sustainability as the guiding principles of the business. Karno likens organic coffee to the wine industry. By carefully selecting his growers, like one selects grapes, Karno can enhance the quality of his product. Groundwork’s beans are shade-grown and handpicked, producing super-premium green beans. The beans are then hand-roasted, in one of three custom-built roasters at its Los Angeles warehouse, and distributed to over 200 cafes, restaurants and hotels. Fortunately, for coffee lovers like me, the taste of organic coffee has improved over the years.
As the second largest commodity in the world (after oil), coffee travels through many hands, making it vulnerable to handlers. Karno has effectively reduced the chain of command. He pioneered what he calls “relationship based coffee sourcing,” meaning that he buys directly from the farmers. By developing one-on-one relationships, Groundwork offers a fair price to workers and for the coffee, thereby coining the term “fairly traded coffee.” Groundwork has openly resisted paying TransFair USA for the official “Fair Trade” certification. Not only does it limit the producers Groundwork can engage, but it also rewards the same price for all coffee no matter the difference in quality.
So how is Groundwork different than the big retailers? Most recognizable chains like Starbucks rely on a highly mechanized process. They strip the land and use full-sun cultivation. The side effects include deforestation, pesticide pollution and destruction of wildlife habitats. While this approach may facilitate mass production, Karno explains, it is not a sustainable business model.
Sustainability. It is a word I hear used so freely in this Green Movement. But what does it mean exactly? I looked it up:
Sustainable
- adjective
capable of being continued with minimal long-term effect on the environment.
In fact, Groundwork is actively integrating more sustainable practices throughout its business. Its retail outlets are preparing to switch to biodegradable “to go†cups and stemware, and the company cars are running on natural gas, the cleanest source of fuel available to date. Even the leftover grounds are put to good use, poured into a compost bin at its Venice location. Apparently, the nitrogen produced makes excellent fertilizer for any gardener who wants to stop by and fill up.
“If we’re going to talk the talk, then we need to walk the walk,” says Karno. “We are doing everything possible that makes economic sense.” To this end, Groundwork has pledged to be carbon neutral within 18 months.
“Then, at least, you’re not a part of the problem,” he said, pausing as if to underline a deeper motivation. “At the end of the day, it’s about what you do.”
In that moment, it became clear to me: Groundwork’s mission extends well beyond the bottom line. It is a company that is committed to community. Coffee brings people together. Groundwork recognizes this opportunity, by donating to local theatres, street fairs, and events-aiming to educate the consumer as well. It also plugs into local life via its six retail stores across Los Angeles County. Each one reflects the particular character of its neighborhood, a refreshing change from the cookie-cutter outlets.
As I walk away, I’m converted. I hereby declare myself a certified organic coffee drinker.
My new favorite… Black Gold. Groundwork’s most popular brew.
______________________________________________________________________________________________
Karin Gutman - Ecoist
Karin Gutman is a writer/producer who has written and developed projects for National Geographic, Nickelodeon, Hallmark and Scholastic Entertainment. In addition to her screen work, she has authored two illustrated books. She lives in Santa Monica, a model city to which she credits her green inspiration.
Tags: organic coffee